Chef to open Anna’s Table in Cannon Beach

Published 4:02 pm Monday, January 22, 2024

CANNON BEACH — Growing up in Astoria, John Nelson spent much of his time exploring the outdoors. The chef said he was never formally taught how to clam, fish, crab or forage, but the ability came naturally.

“Friends would always tease me and say I was born with a clamshell in my hand,” he said.

Born into a family of Swedish fishermen, Nelson quickly became familiar with the Pacific Northwest’s fishing and culinary industries. He first started cooking in the kitchen of his mother’s restaurant, The Sanctuary, which was lodged within a renovated church in Chinook, Washington.

Now, Nelson is opening a new restaurant of his own in Cannon Beach and naming it in honor of his mother and his daughter. Housed in the former EVOO cooking school on Hemlock Street, the restaurant will seat a little over 30 people and is set to officially open in early March.

“The name is Anna’s Table,” he said. “First of all, the name, we want it to be comfortable. We want you to know that you’re going to come in and you’re going to be sitting at somebody’s table enjoying something. And Anna is the middle name of my daughter and my mom is Joanne. So, kind of a play on words.”

The menu will focus on regional offerings from the ocean with a Swedish accent to honor Nelson’s Scandinavian heritage. He said people can expect to see a lot of pickled, brined, smoked, cured and raw dishes.

“I think what has brought me success, and what I really enjoy doing, is clean,” he said. “I like things that are just not mucked up or muddied up with heavy sauces.

“I just really want you to know what it is that you’re eating, why we’re eating it and why we’re doing it this way.”

Nelson said he also hopes to bring some of his teaching experience to Anna’s Table. While living in central Oregon, he spent some time working as an instructor at the Cascade Culinary Institute. He said one of his favorite parts of teaching in the culinary industry is the way information and ideas are reciprocated.

“It is extremely satisfying to see someone else learn what you know,” he said. “But here’s the deal: if I pass on stuff, then stuff gets passed on to me, because they’re interested. And that’s pretty cool, that I can keep learning. I love that exchange.”

Nelson said the educational aspect of the restaurant also inspired the intimate setting, giving him a chance to connect with his customers and ultimately leave them with a greater understanding of their food.

Patrons may recognize some of the dishes on the menu from his 2017 cookbook, titled “Dig a Clam, Shuck an Oyster, Shake a Crab.” The book emerged as an assortment of coastal stories and recipes that Nelson began writing down in 2006. When he first began exploring publication, not much came of it.

“It went absolutely nowhere, like you always hear,” he said. “And then, quite a few years later, I get a call from an agent in New York who says, ‘Hey, I’ve got this manuscript on my desk, would you want to finish it?’”

Within a week, the cookbook had been published. Nelson said it was difficult to choose which recipes he wanted to include, but that he tried to focus on things that reminded him of his childhood and were accessible to the average amateur cook.

Though Nelson has an idea for a second cookbook, he said it would have to be the right circumstance before he starts putting things into motion. For now, he’s looking forward to opening Anna’s Table to the community.

“You always want to do something in a place you really have an affinity for,” he said. “Bottom line is, I just want to be here. And from a business standpoint, I think there’s a niche to be filled here.”

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