Patti's Wicker Cafe.

Patty’s is a romantic’s gourmet with all the trimmings, a quiet place where she serves hash browns and eggs, succulent Reuben’s and a seafood chowder that would have earned a nod from Julia Child. Seth, the maitre d’ and head waiter has the polish and patience of a highly paid butler.

There is a whole room dedicated to Humphrey Bogart, Patty’s obsession, posters, biographies, rare articles, and a life size replica of the “Maltese Falcon.” Exotic plants are everywhere, and some people come as much for the view as the cooking. A couple of cautions: don’t ask for ketchup, turn down your cell phones. Patty is a confirmed Luddite with the old-fashioned belief that people ought to talk to each other.

If all the above sounds a bit thick, it’s supposed to, because: If you haven’t been to Patty’s, you haven’t been to Seaside.

Bob Dietsche, author of “Jumptown: The Golden Age of Portland Jazz” and “Tatum’s Town: The early years of Art Tatum.”